Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
